"soto" (soto)
02/24/2014 at 01:28 • Filed to: None
0
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"soto" (soto)
02/24/2014 at 01:28 • Filed to: None | 0
| 5 |
A Goodnight or morning laugh for you all.
GhostZ
> soto
02/24/2014 at 01:37 |
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u fokkn wit me m8??? il fok u up rite her i wul
Big Bubba Ray
> GhostZ
02/24/2014 at 01:45 |
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Totally off topic, but I was looking for you on here earlier and couldn't find you haha
Anyways, I'm going to check out a 77 280Z sometime this week and I'm not really sure what to look for/be wary of with these cars besides the obvious rust. I know that you're somewhat of a Z aficionado and I was wondering if you could offer some tips?
If I could email you or something sometime tomorrow that would be a massive help. If you're willing to help I'd greatly appreciate it, if not it's all good haha
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GhostZ
> Big Bubba Ray
02/24/2014 at 02:11 |
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You can always go to ghostz.kinja.com to find me.
1. Rust behind the rear wheels/in the wheel well - this is common, but if it's more than surface rust could be an indicator of frame rust, which makes the car almost unusable.
2. Rust in the battery tray - this is common
3. Rust under the rear hatch.
4. What cylinder heads it has (list here: http://datsunzgarage.com/heads/ ) A 1977 one should have the N47.
5. Check the rubber all around the engine bay, it will give you a good sign of what the bushings underneath the car are probably like, and tell you if you should worry about oil or fuel leaks due to bad hoses (common). There's a lot of cheap hoses on this car that can go wrong if neglected.
6. If converted to carbs, check to see if they are SU, Webers or Mikunis (which are really similar to Webers). Mikunis are relatively rare and could be worth quite a bit. They're almost identical, but Mikunis can sometimes be desired for factory-correct restoration. I believe SU carbs are easiest to tune, but the Weber/Mikuni design is more powerful. Don't quote me though, I don't know carburetors that well.
7. Check the dash. If the dash is UNCRACKED, and there's no body or frame rust, buy the car immediately. A whole, original, uncracked dash can fetch up to $1000 alone, it's that common of a problem and makes it that rare to find an uncracked one. If it is cracked bad, expect to fork out ~$100-$200 for a decent dash cover.
8. Lift the mats and check the floorboards. If they have rust holes (or the starting of them) there's a good chance there's rust on the frame too.
9. Check the transmission. The 5 speed simply added an overdrive gear, so it's no faster than the 4 speed, but greatly improves top speed. 5-speeds sell for more and are obviously more desirable.
10. Those bumpers caused bad lift and horrible aerodynamics around and above 65mph. Removing them is safer and faster. They are the huge reason Nissan made such a drastic styling change in the nose of the 280ZX. Headlight covers do wonders for the aero too, and can make a noticeable (2-3mpg) gain in your fuel economy.
Other quirks:
1. The fuel injection is extremely reliable, if the hoses and lines are in good shape. Switching to carbs, unless you are a really good carburetor tuner, is usually not worth it other than for the noise and appearance.
2. The bumpers alone account for the massive weight gain between the 240Z and the 280Z, except for the R200 differential, a larger driveshaft, and some noise deadening.
That's all I can really think off the top of my head. Let me know how it goes!
zmf2112
> GhostZ
02/24/2014 at 05:37 |
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Awesome info - thanks for sharing. I just happen to be looking for a decent 280 as well.
The Dummy Gummy
> soto
02/24/2014 at 06:04 |
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"You fucken wanker. You fucken knob-head."
This guy should be commenting on most sports games. This is great.